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The most tucked-away neighbourhoods in Paris are always a thrill to discover. La Butte Bergeyre, the mound or hill Bergeyre, is one of them! Accessed by three staircases and one winding road, Butte Bergeyre is a tranquil oasis in the middle of Paris. You have to be on a mission to find Butte Bergeyre as it is easily missed.
A Little History: La Butte Bergeyre
Originally pasture land, in the early 20th century, an amusement park, Les “Folles Buttes,” was set up on Butte Bergeyre. A stadium of 15000 seats was built on the top of the hill. The stadium, inaugurated in August 1918, was named after Robert Bergeyre, a rugby player, killed at 20 years old at the beginning of WWI. The Bergeyre stadium held the final soccer match, La Coupe de France, in 1920 and hosted events of the Paris summer Olympics of 1924.
By 1926, the stadium was razed and developers started building houses for the growing population of Paris.
During the development of this area of Paris, La Butte Bergeyre, part of an old gypsum quarry, was not integrated with the creation of nearby Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Make sure you take a stroll through Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. It’s a very Parisian experience.
5 Reasons To Visit Butte Bergeyre
1. Climb To Butte Bergeyre And Flâner
Access La Butte Bergeyre by one of three staircases. My favourite staircase to enter Butte Bergeyre is on Rue Michel Tagrine. I love the street art at the top of the stairs, although it has changed, dedicated to Michel Tagrine. I always pause for a minute and think of the young violinst who died the day that Paris was liberated from the Germans.
Once atop the Butte, it is time to flâner. It’s rather an art knowing how to flâner – how to wander deliberately aimlessly, observing life. There are only a few roads atop Butte Bergeyre. Stroll along rue Georges Lardennois, rue Phillipe Hecht, rue Rémy de Gourmont, and rue Edgar Poe.There are no cafés or boutiques on La Butte Bergeyre, so fire up your senses, follow the cobbled streets, and enjoy some quiet moments in busy Paris.
2. Butte Bergeyre: Soak Up The Village Feel In The Heart of Paris
Do you know that village feel in Paris? It’s an inherently tranquil feeling. A sentiment of being transported to the country, say Provence. Or perhaps stepping back in time. Neighbours sit in shared gardens sipping wine, others trim their rosebushes, or exchange a pleasantry on the sidewalk and curious cats glance up from their sunny perch.
Follow the scent of springtime roses (there are plenty of my favourite Pierre de Ronsard roses), wander the cobbled street past wisteria tumbling over gates and know that you have discovered one of Paris’s treasures.
3. Enjoy Panoramic Views From Butte Bergeyre
From La Butte Bergeyre, the panoramic views over Paris are breathtaking. Sit on the perfectly positioned bench (yes, there is just one) and admire both Sacré-Coeur and the Eiffel Tower in the distance.
4. Find The Hidden Vineyard
A few years back, I went on a mission to find all the hidden vineyards in Paris. Many people know about the small vineyard in Montmartre but few know where to find the others. Finding the vineyard was the purpose of my first visit to La Butte Bergeyre!
Take a minute and remember that a century ago, la Butte Bergeyre was covered in windmills, pasture land, and vineyards. Stand facing the views of Sacré-Coeur and peer down the slope. There, clinging to the steep hillside, are the last remaining vines of la Butte Bergeyre.
5. See What’s Growing In The Shared Garden
Community gardens say a lot about a neighbourhood and its inhabitants. Just watch what goes on in the shared garden of Butte Bergeyre. Locals perched on lawn chairs will welcome you in to have a look at what is planted and growing. At least that has been my experience.
How To Access Butte Bergeyre:
Exit the Metro station Colonel Fabien walk up Av. Mathurin Moreau, turn right on Rue Georges Lardennois and keep your eyes open for Rue Michel Tagrine
Access staircases from rue Manin and also Av Simon Bolivar.
La Butte Bergeyre is a 7 min walk from the metro Bolivar 7b.
More Paris Info…
After exploring La Butte Bergeyre in the 19th arrondissement, you might want to add these areas of Paris to your list of places to visit!
Get mixed up with the arrondissements of Paris? This guide to the Paris arrondissements will help you plan your best visit to the City of Light!
This post on Montmartre leads you to the most popular sites as well as some lesser-known places in Montmartre.
Another of Paris’s most-loved areas is Saint-Germain des Prés. Here are my best tips on things to do in Saint-Germain des Prés.
Le Marais is one of the best areas of Paris to flâner. Here are 23 tops things to do in le Marais.
La Butte aux Cailles, tucked away in the 13th arrondissement, is another place in Paris that has retained its village-like charm. My article on La Butte aux Cailles will lead you to discover some of the area and its visually enticing street art.
Canal Saint-Martin is another place full of small restaurants, boutiques and plenty of character. Stroll the bridges of the canal under the chestnut trees and feel like a true Parisian. All the details on this “bobo” district are in this article on Canal Saint-Martin.
Here are all the things to do on Ile Saint-Louis, one of the oldest villages in Paris.
Don’t forget that the 7th arrondissement has lots to see and do once you have seen the Eiffel Tower.
And the 11th arrondissment of Paris? Authentic and full of great restaurants and shopping (like a local).
Other Paris and France Travel Tips:
Travelling to Paris alone? This article on navigating Paris alone is full of tips and tricks for the solo traveller.
This page has all my articles on Paris that will help you plan out your trip, including day trips from Paris. I hope you subscribed to my newsletter to get my free download – An Amazing 2-day Itinerary in Paris.
If you are going further afield in France, make sure to check out my page on France.