I kept checking “Book Your Visit” on the Notre-Dame de Paris application. The waits varied from 25 minutes to over an hour, assured that I was in some sort of virtual lineup, I waited. Didn’t close the browser. The time slots were invariably full or unavailable each time I made it past the first step.
I live in Paris. I’ve lingered around Notre Dame Cathedral a lot in the last five years. I’ve reminisced about my last visit in the summer of 2018 before the fire. I’ve followed the resurrection of the cathedral in awe.
It’s not lost on me that construction began on Notre Dame Cathedral in 1163 and it opened to the public in 1345. I mean, it’s almost one thousand years old. It was in a rough state after the French Revolution and Victor Hugo’s The Hunchback of Notre Dame played a large role in reminding Parisians of the treasure at their fingertips. I know that architect Viollet-le-Duc headed up a large renovation project in 1864 adding the spectacular spire that fell in flames just 5 years ago.
No wonder Notre Dame is the heartbeat of Paris.
I know I am going to get to visit Notre Dame Cathedral one of these days. A last shot at getting a spot on Monday night at 11:30 PM resulted in a 9 AM invitation to Mass on Thursday, December 12, 2024. I jumped at it, thrilled. Whatever other plans I had for Thursday morning were immediately cancelled. I had a date with Notre-Dame de Paris!
Notre Dame Cathedral Opening Hours: Starting Monday December 16, 2024 Notre Dame will resume it s daily schedule from 7:45 AM to 7:00 PM
Entry to Notre Dame de Paris: Free of charge; You must have a ticket with a QR code and timeslot. Book your entry on the “app” Notre Dame de Paris or visit the official website of Notre-Dame Cathedral
Organ Concerts: Starting on Sunday, December 15, 2024 at 5 PM there will be a weekly organ concert played by one of the Cathedral’s four organists.
Visiting Notre-Dame Cathedral December 2024
I’m not Catholic but I do visit every Church or Cathedral I pass by in France. I’ve been to many a mass since I moved here almost five years ago. I can’t believe I have an invitation (and QR code) to celebrate a solemn Mass celebrating the Octave of the reopening of the doors of Notre-Dame de Paris.
I arrive 15 minutes before my entry time to a very long lineup. Fifty minutes later, frozen to the core, I show my QR code and follow the queue past the stunning portals. There is no opportunity to linger on the forecourt.
I enter through the majestic Last Judgement Portal where the Archbishop of Paris had struck the door three times with this staff just five nights previously. Upon hearing the Cathedral respond in song (the choir) in a majestic gesture, he swung the monumental wooden doors open. The sacred space of Notre Dame was free to enter once again.
I step past the ancient wooden doors into a glistening Notre-Dame de Paris. It’s brilliant. Full of light. My eyes dart up to the heavens and towards the altar.
I’m seeing Notre Dame Cathedral like it was centuries ago. Every inch of the cathedral has been refurbished. Resurrected. Scrubbed until it shines. It’s so impressive.
The colours of the stained glass windows are spellbinding. The famous rose windows are breathtaking in their splendour.
The chapels have been repainted in their 19th-century glory! The colours are reminiscent of Paris’s oldest church in Saint-Germain des Prés and the colourful interior of a lesser-known church in the 9th arrondissement.
I’m drawn towards the altar. I try to take it all: the golden cross, the Pieta, candles a lit, priests preparing for the Mass.
The Madonna and Child are back home, miraculously surviving the fire unscathed.
On either side of the altar, the magnificent carvings of Bible stories are freshly painted.
With the restoration of the Cathedral, a golden reliquary now stands to display the Crown of Thorns, which was also spared during the fire. It was in 1239 that Saint Louis deposited Christ’s Crown of Thorns at Notre Dame Cathedral while awaiting the completion of Sainte-Chapelle which he built to hold the relics he acquired on his Holy Crusades.
The return of the Crown of Thorns will take place on Friday, December 13, 2024, when it will hang in the circular centre of the golden reliquary. There is a place reserved for praying just in front of the reliquary shrine.
I linger before two new displays. Gratitude overflows for the firefighters and the men and women who saved and raised Notre Dame, including the donors.
Notre Dame Cathedral: The Mass
Over 30 priests and the Archbishop of Paris, Mgr Laurent Ulrich, assemble in the aisle. The organ in all its refurbished glory fills Notre-Dame de Paris with Ave Maria and the angelic voices of the choir join in. Leading the procession are three altar boys carrying candles. The silver ball full of incense swings back and forth emanating a smoky, ethereal haze encouraging our souls to reach for the heavens.
Not a peep is heard during Mass. No wandering about. No loud voices. It is truly an honour to be there. I hold my Notre-Dame de Paris Inaugural Week December 7 – 15 2024 service book in my hand. Leafing through the onion skin pages to find Thursday morning’s Mass dedicated to the Virgin Mary of Guadeloupe, I follow along the best I can. I’m a silent observer taking in the grandeur, the ceremony, the overwhelming feeling of hope.
The neighbourly greeting after communion is moving. People all around me shake hands, smile, nod. Parisians joyfully greet each other in the aisles with the customary bises, a kiss on each cheek.
After the mass, the archbishop and priests greet people and chat on the forecourt. Now is the time to take in the glorious façade. I look to the Portal of the Virgin (to the left of the central portal) and there is Saint-Denis, holding his head in his hands. One of the three patron saints of Paris, you can read about the legend of Saint-Denis. I always keep an eye out for him in Paris!
Emmanuel, the largest, heaviest and oldest bell (1686) at Notre Dame Cathedral starts its low tone ring to signify noon. I stand and listen to all 12 gongs. Am I really standing before Notre-Dame Cathedral in its inaugural week? I clutch my prayer book and realize what a memento I have in my hand and with one final gaze over the western façade, I take my leave.
A Few Restoration Facts
There are countless stories from the 5-year restoration of Notre Dame Cathedral. Here are just a few special ones:
- The Virgin and Child: The statue of the Virgin and Child, Our Lady of Paris was unharmed during the fire. It was removed for safekeeping during the reconstruction. On November 15, 2024, the statue was returned to Notre-Dame Cathedral. As you face the altar it stands to the right.
- The Pieta: The Statue of the Virgin of Pity or Pieta was also miraculously untouched during the fire. It sits behind the altar.
- The Oak Trees: Over 1000 oak trees that were between 150 and 200 years old were cut down in public and private forests of France to rebuild the cathedral’s spire and beamed roof. Some of the trees were 20 metres (65 feet) tall. There was a delightful video presentation I watched of a 90+ year old man and his son who welcomed the restoration team into their forest to find a soaring straight oak tree. How proud to know that one of your trees makes up Notre Dame’s “Forest of Trees.”
- The Rooster: The rooster on the spire is a bit fatter than the original rooster. On December 16, 2023, the Archbishop of Paris placed within the rooster relics of Saint Denis, Saint Genevieve (both patron saints of Paris), a small piece of Christ’s crown of thorns, the names of all who made donations to the reconstruction of Notre Dame and a copy of the official record of the ceremony. The rooster then was placed in its rightful place on the spire overlooking Notre Dame Cathedral and Paris.
- The Grand Organ: One of the largest organs in France with 8000 pipes, the organ was completely dismantled in August 2020. It was cleaned (all the soot is gone) and reassembled before the end of 2023. It sounded magnificent on December 12, during mass.
- The Chairs: 1500 chairs are laid out for mass. These new chairs were made in the Landes region.
Here are some of the most popular guided tours and tickets for Paris:
This one-hour Seine cruise is unforgettable but so is the evening Seine cruise. It’s a hard choice!
This skip-the-line admission to the Arc de Triomphe Rooftop or the timed entry to the Louvre and reserved access to the Musée d’Orsay can maximize your time. Museum-lovers will like the Paris Museum Pass.
Get to the top of the Eiffel Tower with direct access to the summit by elevator.
A day trip to Versailles with access to the Palace and Gardens with an audio guide is always a good idea.
One of the best things to do on Ile de la Cite is to take a walking tour. This 2-hour+ tour of Ile de la Cite includes a visit to Sainte Chapelle and the Conciergerie.
Notre Dame Cathedral: A Few Significant Dates
In almost one thousand years, there are countless key dates and events that have transpired at Notre Dame Cathedral. Here are a few:
- 1239: Saint Louis deposits the Holy Crown of Christ
- 1447: Charles VII celebrates the end of the Hundred Years’ War with a Te Deum (hymn of festivals and triumphs)
- 1804: The Coronation of Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte by Pope Pius VII (painting by Jacques-Louis David at the Louvre Museum; photo above from the replica at the Château de Versailles)
- 1853: The Royal Marriage of Emperor Naopléon III and Eugénie de Montijo
- 1944: The bells ring for the Liberation of Paris on August 25. On August 26, 1944, a Magnifcat is sung for General de Gaulle and Géneral Leclerc
Read More: 25 Essential Paris Travel Tips. Here are the best Paris experiences to have and where to find 43 hidden gems in Paris. Only have a short time in Paris? Try this One Day in Paris Itinerary. If you want to find the charms of secret Paris, find them in my eBook, Paris for the Curious Stroller.
What To Visit Near Notre Dame Cathedral
Notre Dame Cathedral is the heart of Paris so it is not surprising that there is plenty to see and do within a 5 to 10-minute walk. Right after the mass, I sauntered over, still frozen to the core, to the coffee shop at Shakespeare and Co. After thawing out a bit, I visited the Notre-Dame Christmas Market in Square René Viviani in full swing and indulged in a raclette baguette sandwich of ham and melted Reblochon cheese.
Ile de la Cité: Read my guide on Ile de la Cité to discover what other marvellous things there are to see on Ile de la Cité. If you’re hungry, a stop at Le Vieux Arcole may be in order. If you want to see more magnificent stained glass windows, book a ticket at Sainte-Chapelle. You could also wander to one of Paris’s royal squares, Place Dauphine!
Ile Saint-Louis: Read my guide on Ile Saint Louis to see what charming things there are to see! Cross the Seine River by taking the Pont St-Louis (bridge) and find a café with a view of the Panthéon. Sit at the tip of the island and watch the river traffic. Or how about trying the famous Berthillon ice cream, one of Paris’s most known ice creams!
The Latin Quarter: Cross the Petit-Pont Cardinal Lustiger and you are in the Latin Quarter. Read my guide on the highlights of the Latin Quarter.
The Marais: Cross the Seine River in the opposite direction on Pont Notre Dame and you have stepped into the Marais. Read my guide on the Marais to discover what is close to Notre-Dame.
Where To Stay Near Notre Dame Cathedral
There are no hotels on Ile de la Cité, Paris. Why not try staying close by on Ile Saint Louis or in the 4th?
- Stay On Ile St Louis Paris in one of these hotels.
- Stay in Paris’s 4th arrondissement (Le Marais) in one of these charming hotels.
- If you prefer apartments, how about this darling home with a rooftop terrace or this apartment with its exposed gabled ceilings?
I can’t wait until you get your ticket to Notre Dame Cathedral.
Until next time,
