When I first visited Paris, the 12th arrondissement of Paris wasn’t on my radar. Little did I know that far removed from the hustle and bustle of central Paris, this diverse neighbourhood was a treasure waiting to be discovered.
From the picturesque greenery of the Bois de Vincennes to the dynamic energy of Bercy Village, and colourful rue Crémieux, the 12th arrondissement of Paris is full of intriguing corners to discover.
Here is my guide to the hidden gems in the 12th arrondissement of Paris.
13 Best Things To Do In The 12th Arrondissement Of Paris
1. Peruse Marché d’Aligre In Paris 12eme
Marché d’Aligre, also known as Le Marché Couvert Beauvau (the Beauvau Covered Market), is one of the best market experiences in Paris. It’s one of my favourite places to visit in the 12th arrondissement of Paris.
This bustling outdoor market in Paris 12eme has over 200 vendors and the most affordable prices in Paris. Stroll down rue d’Aligre where vendors shout out their prices, meander through the covered market with the best fromagerie, and peruse the flea market where treasures of all sorts are to be found.
Read More | Here are some of the best fromageries in Paris and also a guide to which French cheeses to choose.
It was at Fromagerie Hardouin-Langlet in the Beauvau Covered Market that I discovered Brillat-Savarin cheese with a thin layer of truffles in the middle. Need I say more?
Another favourite market experience in Paris is the oldest covered market at Marché des Enfants Rouges.
A trip to Marché d’Aligre is not complete without a look through the boutiques that line the square. Don’t miss the Merveilleux de Fred, one of my favourite pâtisseries and then stop for a coffee or meal at the corner café, Café Charlette. It’s the perfect place for people-watching!
Location and Hours:
Location: 25-11 rue d’Aligre
Hours:
Outdoor Market: Tuesday – Friday 7 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Closed Monday
Covered Market: Tuesday – Friday 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 4 to 7:30 p.m.
Saturday 9 a.m to 1 p.m. and 3.30 to 7:30 p.m.; Sunday 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m Closed Monday
Métro: Ledru-Rollin
2. Get Back To Nature In Le Bois De Vincennes
Situated on Paris’s eastern edge, the Bois de Vincennes is Paris’s largest green space. Historically a hunting ground for the kings of France, the Bois de Vincennes in the 12th arrondissement of Paris is a fun stop for every traveller. Its four lakes (try boating on Lac Minimes or Lac Daumesnil), botanical garden (Parc Floral de Paris), world-class zoo where animals live as close to their natural habitat as possible, and horse racing track (the Hippodrome de Vincennes) are just some of the highlights of Paris’s largest public park. Oh, and there’s a castle, the Château de Vincennes at the park’s edge.
Le Bois de Vincennes has extensive trails for walking and riding. It’s a wonderful place to have a picnic and relax.
Pro Tip: Don’t miss the Paris Jazz Festival that runs from June to September 2024, in the Parc Floral.
Métro: You need to figure out where you want to start your visit to the Bois de Vincennes as there are multiple entry points.
Line 1 Saint-Mandé – and then a few minutes walk to Lac Mandé
Or take Line 1 to Château de Vincennes – follow signs ot the park entrance with the Château on your right
Line 8 Porte Dorée, Porte Charenton
3. Visit Colourful Rue Crémieux In Paris 12
In the 19th century, Baron Haussmann redesigned Paris and still today the architectural style is recognizable worldwide. Stone buildings with wrought iron railings line the boulevards in Paris. Quintessential Paris. Tucked away are also many unique streets and rue Crémieux is one of those hidden gems in the 12th arrondissement of Paris. Located near the Gare de Lyon, rue Crémieux has become popular with Instagrammers so go early and enjoy this colourful, cobblestone street in Paris.
Location: between rue de Lyon and rue de Bercy; 12th
Métro: Gare de Lyon, Quai de la Rapée
4. Take A Train From The Gare de Lyon
The Gare de Lyon, the Paris train station where trains head southeast to destinations such as Dijon, Lyon, Marseille, Switzerland and Italy, is in the heart of the 12th arrondissement Paris. You’ll know it straight away from its stunning bell tower designed by Charles Garnier, the same man who designed the Opéra Garnier.
There’s been a train station here since 1855 but it was redesigned by the Toulon architect Marius Toudoire for the Universal Exhibition in 1900.
As with all train travel from Paris, arrive early for your train as there are three large halls. Hall 1, the historic hall, is where you will find the famous and historic restaurant le Train Bleu, which glitters with gold. It is still on my bucket list to dine here.
Location: Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand, Paris 12
5. The 12th Arrondissement Of Paris: Walk The Coulée Verte
Stroll along Paris’s ancient and abandoned railway line, La Coulée Verte René-Dumont, that inspired New York’s Highline. You’ll pass interesting architecture, rose gardens, parks perfect for a picnic, and street art. Walk or cycle from the 12th arrondissement of Paris to the Bois de Vincennes for a wonderful adventure. La Coulée Verte, also known as La Promenade Plantée, is a true treasure of the 12th arrondissement of Paris.
Find out all the details of the Coulée Verte in the 12th arrondissement Paris.
6. Sip Wine At Le Baron Rouge
Le Baron Rouge is an unmissable destination in the 12th arrondissement of Paris, especially if you are at the Marché d’Aligre. And, especially if you love a buzzing wine bar! Just a few steps from the market, the tiny Baron Rouge, its walls lined with barrels and bottles of wine, is hopping with activity. Stand at the counter or take a spot on the sidewalk while you sip local wines and share a charcuterie board or a platter of oysters.
When I lived in the 11th arrondissement, I made it part of my routine to buy my wine in bulk. I felt so Parisien arriving with my empty wine bottle, asking for samples from the barrels and then having my bottle(s) filled with my preferred wine.
Location: 1 rue Théophile Roussel, Paris 12
Pro Tip: If Le Baron Rouge is full to the brim head on over to Les Caves de Prague. This natural wine bar is another favourite.
Les Caves du Prague, 8 rue de Prague, Paris 12
7. Explore Bercy Village At Cour Saint-Emilion
What initially drew me to the Cour Saint-Emilion was the umbrella project, a creative art installation. In the evening at Christmas time with mini-lights galore, the umbrellas created a warm ambience in the Cour Saint-Emilion. What I didn’t know was that the Cour Saint-Emilion is all that remains of the Bercy storage areas where the largest wine market in the world was held for over one hundred years.
Today in Bercy Village, there are 42 ancient storehouses used as restaurants and shops in a paved courtyard.
Location: Cour Saint-Emilion, Paris 12
Métro: Cour Saint-Emilion
8. Relax At The Bassin de l’Arsenal
The first time I discovered the Bassin de l’ Arsenal I was thrilled to discover where the Canal Saint-Martin empties into the Seine, to find a marina for pleasure boats right in central Paris, to explore the gardens, and most of all to sit in the bustling Le Grand Bleu on the rooftop terrace with its unobstructed views over the water.
There are multiple possibilities of what to do at this top location in the 12th arrondissement of Paris! Stop by the Port de l’Arsenal for an apéro after exploring the 11th arrondissement, take a cruise up Canal Saint-Martin, or stand and watch boats passing through the lock between the Seine and the Canal Saint-Martin. Have a rest in the gardens and then wander down to the Quai de Rapée on the Seine. You’ll find you are right across from the quays where the tango and salsa dancing are happening. You might just have to cross the Seine and join in the fun.
9. Step Into A Magical World At The Museum Of Fairground Arts
Of all the things to do in the 12th arrondissement Paris, the Musée des Arts Forains is the most whimsical! This privately owned museum is a true taste of Paris off the beaten path and a marvellous step back in time to the Belle Epoque.
Step into a magical world where old-fashioned carousels, curiosity cabinets, magical gardens, and merry-go-rounds sweep you away to another world.
Visiting This Museum in The 12th Arrondissement Of Paris:
Throughout the year: by guided tour only. The tours are in French with an English handout.
European Heritage Days: The Musée des Arts Forains opens its doors, without a tour, on the 3rd weekend in September
Christmas Outing in Paris, Le Festival de Merveilleux: I visited the museum during Le Festival de Merveilleux which runs for 10 days after Christmas. I stepped into an enchanting world with trapeze artists, dancers, singers, magicians, vintage games, and antique merry-go-rounds whirling about that left an unforgettable impression. If you are planning to be in Paris over Christmas, Le Festival de Merveilleux runs from December 27, 2023, to January 7, 2024.
Location: Pavillons de Bercy, 53 Av. des Terroirs de France, Paris 12
Métro: Cour Saint-Émilion
10. Watch A Film At La Cinémathèque Française
The 12th arrondissement of Paris has a place reserved for true cinephiles! Housed in a building designed by Frank Gehry is the Cinémathèque Française. The museum is a journey through the history of cinema and cinematography techniques. The Cinémathèque Française holds regular screenings, exhibitions, talks, and has a film library.
In 1936, Henri Langlois created the Cinémathèque Française to save all things related to the cinema such as films, costumes, sets and other items from being destroyed. It holds one of the most important collections of cinema-related treasures in the world.
Location: 51 rue de Bercy
Métro: Bercy (line 6 and 14)
11. Opéra Bastille – See An Opera In Paris 12eme
You can’t miss the soaring green-bronze Colonne de Juillet at Place de la Bastille at the intersection of the 4e, 11e, and 12e arrondissements. At Place de la Bastille once stood a 14th-century fortress built to protect the city gates. The fortress became a prison which was stormed on the 14 of July 1789 starting the French Revolution.
Right at Place de la Bastille, at the edge of the 12th arrondissement of Paris, is a gorgeous modern building with curved glass walls. It’s the Opéra Bastille which was inaugurated 200 years after the storming of the Bastille on 13 July 1989.
It was French President François Mitterand who took on the great project of building a more modern venue for opera in Paris and one that was more accessible to all people. And thus the “people’s opera house” was created. With its 2700 seats and unrestricted views, the Opéra Bastille is the place to see an opera!
Guided tours of the building are available.
Location: Place de la Bastille, 12eme arrondissement
Métro: Bastille (lines 1,5, and 8)
12. Bite Into The Best Baguette Of 2021
Every year there is a “Best Baguette in Paris” competition. In 2021, the boulangerie, Les Boulangers de Reuilly, in the 12th arrondissement of Paris was the winner. On a fall day with driving rain, I decided to go straight to Paris 12th and sample this best baguette.
It really was divine. Not only did this best baguette look amazing, but it also smelt incredible. It didn’t disappoint. Crunchy on the outside. Soft on the inside. It was rather perfect.
With the win, the baker Makram Akrout supplies the Elysée Palace (the President of France) with baguettes for an entire year. Stop by and bite into the same baguette as the French President!
Location: Les Boulangers de Reuilly, 54 Bd de Reuilly, 75012 Paris
Métro: Daumesnil
13. Pay Respects At Picpus Cemetary
Picpus Cemetery is a small cemetery in Paris that holds a rich history. This tranquil oasis in the 12th arrondissement of Paris is the final resting place of 1,306 people who lost their lives to the guillotine during France’s Reign of Terror in 1793-1794.
Don’t be surprised to see the American flag flying in Picpus Cemetery. This historical place is where the Marquis de Lafayette (1757-1834) who fought both in the American Revolution under George Washington and the French Revolution was laid to rest.
Location: Picpus Cemetery, 35 Rue de Picpus, Paris 12
Métro: Picpus
I hope you enjoy these best things to do in the 12th arrondissement of Paris as much as I have.
Until next time,
Travel Planning For Paris…
Pre-Planning For Paris
- Book your airline tickets with my favourite platform, Skyscanner.
- Book a transfer from Charles de Gaulle or Orly airport with Welcome Pick Ups.
- Reserve a car (not for Paris) but for a road trip in France
- Reserve train tickets for further travels in Europe with Trainline (my go-to)
Where To Stay In Paris
Affordable Hotels In Paris: Check out this curated list of 13 best affordable Paris hotels.
Boutique Hotels In Le Marais: 11 Charming Boutique Hotels in le Marais
Hotels with Eiffel Tower Views: 21 Hotels with Sumptuous Views
Apartments In Paris: How about this gorgeous apartment just a 4-minute walk from the Eiffel Tower?
Skip the Line Tickets and Tours
Be sure to book in advance for the most popular things to do. Book your entry to the Eiffel Tower, a one-hour Seine cruise, a timed-entry ticket to the Louvre, and a skip-the-line ticket to the top of the Arc de Triomphe. And don’t forget Versailles and Disneyland!
Explore Paris By Quartier
Get mixed up with the arrondissements of Paris? This guide to the Paris arrondissements will help you plan your best visit to the City of Light!
- Montmartre: Explore Bohemian Paris
- Saint-Germain des Prés: Explore Paris like in the movies!
- 23 top things to do in le Marais: Everyone loves le Marais!
- Ile Saint-Louis: One of the oldest villages in Paris.
- Canal Saint-Martin: Off the Beaten Path Paris
Paris Reading
25 Key Travel Tips For Paris. Here are the best Paris experiences to have and where to find 25 hidden gems in Paris. Only have a short time in Paris? Try this One Day in Paris Itinerary. If you want to find the charms of secret Paris, find them in my eBook, Paris for the Curious Stroller.
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What lovely inspiration for Paris 12- an arrondissement that I definitely would like to explore more. When last in Paris, I walked the abandoned railway line, La Coulée Verte, and absolutely loved it. Bercy Village and Le Marché Couvert Beauvau are now on my list of things to see next time I’m in Paris.
Oh yes I love the Coulée Verte! And the Marché d’Aligre is one of my very favourites. There’s the covered market, outdoor market and a flea market!! You’ll love it!