Don’t go to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica unless…
you love the Caribbean Surf
that crashes on the shore
with wild abandon
on stretches of empty beaches.
It hammers
the Playa Cocles surfing beach
where the ultimate goal is to ride
the Salsa Brava,
a legendary, riotous wave.
Don’t go to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica unless…
you love a unique culture
that blends
Spanish chitchat and Creole
with reggae and calypso music.
Where Ticos,
Afro-Caribbeans,
Indigenous BriBri
and ex-pats
exude
a laidback attitude
towards life
in their lively port town.
Read More | Head up to Tortuguero National Park…you won’t be disappointed!
Don’t go to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica unless…
you appreciate stellar biodiversity
as three-toed sloths hide in gargantuan trees,
exquisite butterflies dance together,
exotic birds silently appear,
the haunting sound of howler monkeys
wafts through the jungle
and a careful eye spots a red-eyed tree frog or
perhaps even a camouflaged boa constrictor.
Don’t go to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica unless…
you relish riding down
a ribbon of jungle highway,
rarely losing sight of the sea,
as you hold your own
amongst speeding cars or rattling trucks
and glide carefree
alongside wild horses and wandering cows.
Don’t go to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica unless…
you understand that this easygoing vibe
along with the salty air
can bring out the best in you –
that silly side
or the grounded yogi
the adventurous traveller,
or the relaxed spirit.
Don’t go to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica unless…
you like being welcomed
like an old friend
at local restaurants,
eating delectable meals
from roadside stalls
and savouring rosy mangoes
that are sweeter than honey.
Don’t go to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica unless…
you love animal rescue stories
and can volunteer or visit a centre
to support
the rehabilitation of
injured and orphaned animals
with the hope of
reintroduction
into their natural habitat.
You’ve been warned.
Don’t go to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica unless…
you are savvy enough
to realize that
when you leave this
mystical paradise,
you will already be
planning your return.
When You Go To Puerto Viejo Costa Rica
Puerto Viejo’s full name is Puerto Viejo de Talamanca as there are two Puerto Viejos in Costa Rica.
Puerto Viejo is the main town but along the Caribbean coast, there are 5 other very small towns. Some of them you can blink and miss, but there are cute cafés, great beaches and snorkelling all tucked away. The common practice in the area is to not leave unattended articles on the beach. Just north of Puerto Viejo is Playa Negra, while south you will find Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita, Punta Uva and Manzanillo.
We were there in the rainy season (the fall) and lucked out with the driest of all rainy seasons. When it poured it was torrential, yet warm.
Transportation:
There are many modes of transportation in Puerto Viejo but biking was my preferred method. Everyone rides a bike, usually with a baby, child or surfboard as well. Rent a bike for a day or if you are there for a longer period, buy one on the Puerto Viejo Buy and Sell Facebook Forum. Sell it when you leave.
Accommodation:
My daughter and I rented a VRBO – a jungle house in Playa Cocles. Playa Cocles is a great location as everything is accessible by bicycle from there. Don’t bike on the main jungle highway solo at night. Take a cab instead.
Restaurants:
As we had our own kitchen we did not eat out all that much BUT did love the coffee shops, especially those with gluten-free items.
Como en mi Casa – homemade delicious vegan and gluten-free food made with love!
Bread and Chocolate – great gluten-free chocolate cake
De Gustibus Bakery – has gluten-free cakes – carrot and chocolate
Spanish Classes:
I loved my Spanish classes held at the Cultural Centre with Matias of Eñe Spanish Teachers.
Yoga Studios:
I tried 2 yoga studios and was a regular at Ananda. It is hot and humid in Puerto Viejo so all the yoga is like HOT yoga in Canada!
Ananda Yoga in Playa Negra takes place in an open-air gazebo.
AmaSer is a studio on a hill with gorgeous views.
Look for more yoga classes here.
Rescue Centers:
There is a wide variety of animals here including two and three-toed sloths, howler monkeys and spider monkeys. Volunteers offer fascinating daily educational tours in many languages. The centre attracts volunteers from all over the world.
Please note: This is a rescue centre. My daughter was volunteering with orphaned howler monkeys. Guests do not hold the animals. Look into the benefits of volunteering at the centre.
The giant green macaws are bred and raised on the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica and then brought to the Manzanillo release site. Manzanillo is south of Puerto Viejo.
Wildlife Areas:
Cahuita is a short bus ride north of Puerto Viejo. Either get dropped off where the hike starts at Puerto Vargas or go a little further on the bus to Cahuita town. When you enter the park there, you will find easy hiking trails, park guides and beaches to swim at.
Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife and Marine Refuge:
Be sure to ride your bike south of Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo. It is a lovely, flat ride – except for one big hill. Enjoy the crashing surf and the Cool and Calm Café. Guides are recommended for the hiking trails. It is the safest option.
Don’t Miss:
The Chocolate Festival if you are there in the fall. I am just going to say.. vodka shots infused with chocolate and nothing more!
The Saturday morning market in Puerto Viejo.
A cacao farm tour. We went to the one at Caribeans Coffee and Chocolate which was excellent and informative. Of course, we had to sample their homemade chocolate at their great roadside café.
As they say in Costa Rica… PURA VIDA! That would sum up life in Puerto Viejo!
I hope you enjoy Puerto Viejo Costa Rica as much as I did.
Until next time,
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What a great site! We’re coming to just near PV for 2 weeks at the end of October this year and seriously CAN’T WAIT!!!
ENJOY!!! It is a fabulous part of Costa Rica!
Hi again Alison,
I was looking through your pictures and stories once more…how did Emily get to experience interacting with the howler monkeys please? The JRC says zero interaction on their tours. Thanks in advance.
Hi Suzi, Emily volunteered twice at the JRC. This was her second time volunteering for a three month + period. She was at times responsible for taking the monkeys on daily picnics into the jungle and therefore developed relationships with many of the young howlers. She was also a tour guide. So you are correct, there is no interacting with the monkeys on the tour. I am quite sure you will still love the tour to the JRC. It is so educational and gives you insight into these incredible animals and also into the JRC’s conservation effort. Keep me posted!