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Scilla Calabria, a fishing village, is in a region of Italy virtually unknown to international visitors.ย Nestled along the Tyrrhenian coast of Calabria, the picturesque town of Scilla is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered.
My sister and I arrived in charming Scilla (pronounced Shee-la) after a harrowing drive through the mountainous countryside.ย Itโs not hard to get to Scilla,ย Calabria from Tropea but using only google maps, we became hopelessly lost.
How To Get To Scilla Calabria Italy
By Car to Scilla Calabria:
From Tropea: My few words of wisdom from that experience? If you are driving from Tropea to Scilla Italy via the back roads, take a good old-fashioned map. There is no direct autostrada (highway) between Tropea and Scilla. Both towns are located along the scenic coastal road known as the SS18 or the “Via Marina.”
The route between Tropea and Scilla offers stunning views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Please note that the SS18 is winding and narrow in some sections.
To Scilla From Lamezia Terme International Airport:
To get from Lamezia Terme to Scilla by car, follow the A3 Salerno-Reggio Calabria highway southbound towards Reggio Calabria.
After about 70 kilometres (43 miles), take the exit for Villa San Giovanni. Then follow the SS18 (as above) towards Scilla.
Book My Car For Driving to Scilla
By Train To Scilla:
Take the train from Rome. It’s a 5-hour train ride with one change in Rosarno. Book My Train Ticket.
By Plane To Scilla Italy:
Book a flight to the closest airport Reggio di Calabria. Book My Flight
Driving Adventures To Get To Scilla Calabria
Google Maps and lots of hand gestures with Italians eventually ledย us to the on-ramp of the Autostrada A2.
I exited the roundabout (a nightmare for a Canadian driver)ย and realized I had no idea if we were pointing north or south.
In a split-second decision, ย I swerved into a pullout just before entering the autostrada, came to an abrupt halt and momentarily laid my head on the steering wheel.
Would we ever make it to Scilla Calabria?
Out of the corner of my eye, I could see the windows of the already parked white van unrolling. I looked up at four rugged and astonished faces peering out at us.
We exchanged a jumble of French, Spanish and Italian words. Over-exaggerated hand signals and facial expressions also clarified the situation. Suddenly we found ourselves following the white van all the way to Scilla, Calabria.
With a massive “Grazie” and our nerves a little frayed, we started our visit to Scilla Italy. What better place to regain our balance. A tiny fishing village, tucked between mountains, that seemed to fall into the sea. This tiny strip of coastline was waiting to be explored!
Scilla Calabria Hotels:
Il Casato Deluxe Rooms gets superb reviews and is in an excellent location. Much of the accommodation in Scilla Italy is managed by private hosts. Il Borgo with its spectacular sea views gets exceptional reviews.
Scilla Calabria – The Vibe
Do not arrive in Scilla Calabria Italy with a list of things to do. Scilla Calabria demands that you slow right down. There is no other speed.
Breathe in the salty air drifting off the Tyrrhenian Sea. Indulge in a divine hazelnut gelato. Wander to the main square, Belvedere di Piazza San Rocco. Note all the men leaning on the balustrade, conversing and observing life as it unfolds before them.
Scilla Italy is the kind of town where men have one of three names. It’s either Pepe, Mimmo or Tonito (short form for Guiseppe,ย Domenico and Antonio). Soaring towers on fishing boats tell of an age-old tradition of fishing for swordfish in the Strait of Medina.
From the Belvedere di Piazza San Rocco lean over the railing, gaze out at Sicily and ponder how long Scilla Italy has existed.
The Monster Scylla and Scilla Italy
Scilla’s history dates all the way back to mythological times.
In Greek mythology, Scylla was a terrifying sea monster. She had the upper body of a woman and the lower body of a serpent or fish. According to legend, she lived in a cave on the Italian side of the Strait of Messina, which separates Sicily from the Italian mainland.
Scylla’s legend has been retold in literature and art for centuries, inspiring works such as Homer’s “Odyssey” and Dante’s “Inferno.” Today, the name Scylla is still used to refer to dangerous navigational hazards.
Charybdis, another sea monster, was said to be located on the Sicilian side of the Strait of Messina, opposite Scylla, and sailors had to navigate carefully between the two hazards to avoid being destroyed.
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The Castello Ruffo In Scilla Calabria
Scilla’s Ruffo Castle, apparently also in existence since mythological times, is perched on a rocky ridge jutting into the sea. The promontory separates the two neighbourhoods of Marina Grande and Chianalea. Pay a visit to catch classic views of Sicily and the Ionian Islands.ย
Marina Grande: Scilla Calabria’s Longest Beach
Marina Grande is the main beach of Scilla, situated at the foot of Scilla’s old town. With crystal-clear waters and soft golden sand, Marina Grande is the perfect place to relax. Put away the cell phone, swim, and sunbathe.
Stroll along the seafront promenade, which is lined with colourful restaurants, cafes, and bars serving delicious seafood and refreshing drinks.
Love a good beach holiday? How about checking out this seaside town in Spain.
Chianalea In Scilla Calabria
Scilla’s district namedย Chianalea is a maze of narrow streets leading to the ocean. Known asย the Venice of the South, the jumble of houses tumble down to the sea amidst cafรฉs, strolling cats, hanging laundry and a mermaid fountain.
It’s here that we find our favourite restaurant, Ristorante “Blue de Toi,“ with its tables floating over the sea. Over two evenings Pepe, the chef, prepares grilled tuna, swordfish and octopus along with handmade rigatoni and baba limoncello. Pepe epitomizes the Scilla experience with his passion to create unique cuisine and his entertaining chitchat after our meals.ย
Scilla Calabria: Its People
It is the interactions with the locals that become our most cherished memories of Scilla Calabria.
From the men in the white van who led us like lost sheep to Scilla Italy and the retired Calabrian-Canadian who wants nothing more than for us to stay a week so he can proudly share his homeland with us.
The market vendors and locals are curious about two Canadian sisters passing time in Scilla. They want to know our roots and why (without Italian roots) we have come to Scilla, Calabria.
We encounter Letitia from Rome who loves living in Scilla with her partner and 12 dachshunds and a young man who eagerly schools us in the art of spearing swordfish.
Scilla Calabria, in May, where barely another soul appearsย and the brilliant seawater sparkles is indeed an undiscovered jewel of southern Italy.ย We leave Scilla Calabria with our taste buds humming and heavy hearts. We have barely scraped the surface of this southern Italian treasure.ย
Facts About Calabria Italy
- Ancient Greeks founded many of the cities in Calabria, including Reggio Calabria. The region was once known as Magna Graecia (Greater Greece). The influence of the Greeks can still be seen in the area’s language, customs, and architecture.
- Calabria is home to the Aspromonte National Park, which covers over 640 square kilometres of rugged mountains, forests, and rivers.
- The town of Tropea, located on the Tyrrhenian coast, is famous for its stunning beaches and crystal-clear water. It is also home to the Sanctuary of Santa Maria dell’Isola.
- Calabria is known for its delicious cuisine, which features a lot of seafood, spicy peppers, and locally grown ingredients. Some of the region’s most famous dishes include nduja (a spreadable salami), baccalร (salted cod), and cipolla rossa di Tropea (red onions).
- The town of Cosenza is home to one of the oldest universities in Europe, the University of Calabria, which was founded in 1972.
There are definitely times when Google Maps fails you. As we were driving through the Yucatan, we had all kinds of issues with Google Maps. I think it’s because our phones kept trying to refine the GPS position with cell tower information. Depending on which towers were available, our location would change radically. It was quite a challenge to navigate when you stop believing electronic mapping. I could see good old fashion paper maps or vans full of friendly peoples being a good option.
Yes. When Google maps fails… the old-fashioned way is the way to go. Or possibly, we should have started there. There is huge satisfaction in holding a map in your hand and letting it guide you!
Ahhh Italy, conjures up so many romantic dreams. We watched an amazing document on Italy last night and it has really made my feet itchy to visit soon. I don’t want to do the Aussie bus tour though, I want to stay longer and immerse myself into the life and culture and stay a little while, maybe forever!!
Ha!Yes forever in Italy sounds perfect!
Couldn’t agree more. Spending 30 nights touring Italy from top to toe in October by hire car and so lucky to have stumbled across sites such as this so that destinations can be added. So looking forward to sourcing a good old fashioned updated hand held fold out road map… Ron & Maureen (east coast northern NSW, Australia)
Oh I do hope you get to Scilla! It is authentic Italy at its best! The whole boot from top to bottom. What a great adventure you will have!
The scene sounds so familiar…breathing in the salty air, indulging in gelato and watching locals. Quintessential Italy…feel like returning for the third time.
I know… you can just never go wrong in Italy.
Sounds like you had quite the adventure getting there. We went on a road trip once and google maps failed us too and we panicked a little. Luckily, we were in our native country so there was no language barrier if we needed to ask someone directions. Happy to see you had a great time once you got there and how eager everyone was to show you around this quiet non-touristy town ๐
Yes, it was indeed an adventure to get there but well worth it!
My parents literally just came back from a trip to this region of Italy and have been telling us all about how much they loved this area and how more authentic it is compared to other places. It really has us wanting to go back to Italy and explore the south of the country where we’ve not been before.
I would love to go back and explore further and deeper. It is definitely underexplored by foreigners and therefore there are plenty of wonderful experiences waiting to be had!
What a friendly spot, and so pretty. Google maps and country roads in Europe and not a good combination are they. We got hopelessly lost when we relied on them. Give me old school paper anytime!
I’m stocking up on maps for the next trip!
I’m adding Scilla on the list for next year. I’d love to take a break in a slow-paced destination, and Italy’s always been a favorite, so it looks like a win-win situation ๐
You will love it! Low-key and authentic all the way!
I would love to slow down in Scilla and breathe in the salty air and just chill with the view. Scilla looks like a perfect detox destination and we all need these at times. Surprisingly I had not heard about it before so thank you for making me sit and notice ๐
It is definitely a place for unwinding and slowing the pace of life right down!
LOVE your introduction! Roundabouts can frazzle the nerves of almost any Canadian or U.S. driver not used to them. We have introduced roundabouts near our California home and still laugh (and sometimes wince) watching drivers have no idea how to navigate them. Glad you got help. And also learned that unless in a major city in Europe, Google is rarely your friend. ๐
Thanks, Michael. I have become pro at the single-lane roundabouts and getting much better at the double lane ones! And yes, stocking up on real, old-fashioned paper maps on the next trip!
I would love to stay at Scilla for a week and soak myself in the views of Tyrrhenian Sea. Italy is really love and I love going to offbeat places. Scilla is definitely one of them. I want to relax in Scilla, slow down my life, and chill by the sea.
What a great plan! Slowing down your life in Scilla won’t be hard to do! Enjoy!
Sounds divine! Isnโt it wonderful finding out if the way places where you can just relax and no one treats you like a tourist! Love it! Love this post. L
Thanks, Linda! I just loved Scilla. I think it was partly the struggle to get there and then to discover the most lovely people. It was pure magic!