Scilla Calabria: Authentic Italy Without The Crowds

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Scilla Calabria, a fishing village, is in a region of Italy virtually unknown to international visitors. Nestled along the Tyrrhenian coast of Calabria, the picturesque town of Scilla is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered.

My sister and I arrived in charming Scilla (pronounced Shee-la) after a harrowing drive through the mountainous countryside. It’s not hard to get to Scilla, Calabria from Tropea but using only google maps, we became hopelessly lost.

How To Get To Scilla Calabria Italy

By Car to Scilla Calabria:

From Tropea: My few words of wisdom from that experience? If you are driving from Tropea to Scilla Italy via the back roads, take a good old-fashioned map. There is no direct autostrada (highway) between Tropea and Scilla. Both towns are located along the scenic coastal road known as the SS18 or the “Via Marina.”

The route between Tropea and Scilla offers stunning views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Please note that the SS18 is winding and narrow in some sections.

To Scilla From Lamezia Terme International Airport:

To get from Lamezia Terme to Scilla by car, follow the A3 Salerno-Reggio Calabria highway southbound towards Reggio Calabria.

After about 70 kilometres (43 miles), take the exit for Villa San Giovanni. Then follow the SS18 (as above) towards Scilla.

Book My Car For Driving to Scilla

By Train To Scilla:

Take the train from Rome. It’s a 5-hour train ride with one change in Rosarno. Book My Train Ticket.

By Plane To Scilla Italy:

Book a flight to the closest airport Reggio di Calabria. Book My Flight

Driving Adventures To Get To Scilla Calabria

Google Maps and lots of hand gestures with Italians eventually led us to the on-ramp of the Autostrada A2.

I exited the roundabout (a nightmare for a Canadian driver) and realized I had no idea if we were pointing north or south.

In a split-second decision,  I swerved into a pullout just before entering the autostrada, came to an abrupt halt and momentarily laid my head on the steering wheel.

Would we ever make it to Scilla Calabria?

Out of the corner of my eye, I could see the windows of the already parked white van unrolling. I looked up at four rugged and astonished faces peering out at us.

We exchanged a jumble of French, Spanish and Italian words. Over-exaggerated hand signals and facial expressions also clarified the situation. Suddenly we found ourselves following the white van all the way to Scilla, Calabria.

With a massive “Grazie” and our nerves a little frayed, we started our visit to Scilla Italy. What better place to regain our balance. A tiny fishing village, tucked between mountains, that seemed to fall into the sea. This tiny strip of coastline was waiting to be explored!

Scilla Calabria – The Vibe

Do not arrive in Scilla Calabria Italy with a list of things to do. Scilla Calabria demands that you slow right down. There is no other speed.

Breathe in the salty air drifting off the Tyrrhenian Sea. Indulge in a divine hazelnut gelato. Wander to the main square, Belvedere di Piazza San Rocco. Note all the men leaning on the balustrade, conversing and observing life as it unfolds before them.

Scilla Italy is the kind of town where men have one of three names. It’s either Pepe, Mimmo or Tonito (short form for Guiseppe, Domenico and Antonio). Soaring towers on fishing boats tell of an age-old tradition of fishing for swordfish in the Strait of Medina.

From the Belvedere di Piazza San Rocco lean over the railing, gaze out at Sicily and ponder how long Scilla Italy has existed.

The Monster Scylla and Scilla Italy

Scilla’s history dates all the way back to mythological times.

In Greek mythology, Scylla was a terrifying sea monster. She had the upper body of a woman and the lower body of a serpent or fish. According to legend, she lived in a cave on the Italian side of the Strait of Messina, which separates Sicily from the Italian mainland.

Scylla’s legend has been retold in literature and art for centuries, inspiring works such as Homer’s “Odyssey” and Dante’s “Inferno.” Today, the name Scylla is still used to refer to dangerous navigational hazards.

Charybdis, another sea monster, was said to be located on the Sicilian side of the Strait of Messina, opposite Scylla, and sailors had to navigate carefully between the two hazards to avoid being destroyed.

The Castello Ruffo In Scilla Calabria

Scilla’s Ruffo Castle, apparently also in existence since mythological times, is perched on a rocky ridge jutting into the sea. The promontory separates the two neighbourhoods of Marina Grande and Chianalea. Pay a visit to catch classic views of Sicily and the Ionian Islands. 

Marina Grande: Scilla Calabria’s Longest Beach

Marina Grande is the main beach of Scilla, situated at the foot of Scilla’s old town. With crystal-clear waters and soft golden sand, Marina Grande is the perfect place to relax. Put away the cell phone, swim, and sunbathe.

Stroll along the seafront promenade, which is lined with colourful restaurants, cafes, and bars serving delicious seafood and refreshing drinks.

Chianalea In Scilla Calabria

Scilla’s district named Chianalea is a maze of narrow streets leading to the ocean. Known as the Venice of the South, the jumble of houses tumble down to the sea amidst cafés, strolling cats, hanging laundry and a mermaid fountain.

It’s here that we find our favourite restaurant, Ristorante “Blue de Toi,“ with its tables floating over the sea. Over two evenings Pepe, the chef, prepares grilled tuna, swordfish and octopus along with handmade rigatoni and baba limoncello. Pepe epitomizes the Scilla experience with his passion to create unique cuisine and his entertaining chitchat after our meals. 

Scilla Calabria: Its People

It is the interactions with the locals that become our most cherished memories of Scilla Calabria.

From the men in the white van who led us like lost sheep to Scilla Italy and the retired Calabrian-Canadian who wants nothing more than for us to stay a week so he can proudly share his homeland with us.  

The market vendors and locals are curious about two Canadian sisters passing time in Scilla. They want to know our roots and why (without Italian roots) we have come to Scilla, Calabria. 

 We encounter Letitia from Rome who loves living in Scilla with her partner and 12 dachshunds and a young man who eagerly schools us in the art of spearing swordfish. 

Scilla Calabria, in May, where barely another soul appears and the brilliant seawater sparkles is indeed an undiscovered jewel of southern Italy. We leave Scilla Calabria with our taste buds humming and heavy hearts. We have barely scraped the surface of this southern Italian treasure. 

Facts About Calabria Italy

1. Ancient Greeks founded many of the cities in Calabria, including Reggio Calabria. The region was once known as Magna Graecia (Greater Greece). The influence of the Greeks can still be seen in the area’s language, customs, and architecture.
2. Calabria is home to the Aspromonte National Park, which covers over 640 square kilometres of rugged mountains, forests, and rivers.
3. The town of Tropea, located on the Tyrrhenian coast, is famous for its stunning beaches and crystal-clear water. It is also home to the Sanctuary of Santa Maria dell’Isola.
4. Calabria is known for its delicious cuisine, which features a lot of seafood, spicy peppers, and locally grown ingredients. Some of the region’s most famous dishes include nduja (a spreadable salami), baccalà (salted cod), and cipolla rossa di Tropea (red onions).
5. The town of Cosenza is home to one of the oldest universities in Europe, the University of Calabria, which was founded in 1972.

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Author: Alison Browneis following a long-held dream and living in Paris. For the past 6 + years, she has pursued her passion for exploring the world as a solo traveller and housesitter. Her adventures have taken her to Central & South America, SE Asia and Europe. A former teacher, she now inspires women to push the boundaries of their comfort zone and step out into the wide world. Let's start calling those dreams a plan!

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