When I first saw a photo of the majestic cliffs of Etretat France, I knew I wanted to stand and feel small in their presence.
On a glorious September day in Honfleur, I changed my plans and hopped on the next bus to Etretat.
The soaring cliffs of Etretat France were just as I had imagined. Better, in fact.
Little did I know there were so many things to do in Etretat.
Where Is Etretat France?
Etretat is a coastal town situated on the Alabaster Coast (Côte d’Albâtre) of France on the English Channel. It is located in the Seine-Maritime department in the region of Normandy.
Etretat makes for an unforgettable stop on a road trip through Normandy France. If you are planning a trip to Normandy, Etretat is close to Le Havre (30 min) and also Dieppe (90 min). An itinerary in this part of Normandy could include a stop in Honfleur and also Deauville and Trouville-sur-Mer. It is a 3-hour drive from Paris to Etretat (129 miles/ 209 km).
What Is Etretat Known For?
Etretat is known for its breathtaking natural scenery. Dramatic chalk cliffs and unique rock formations make for stunning landscapes. Many famous painters, such as Claude Monet and Gustave Courbet, were drawn to capture Etretat’s beauty on canvas. I love strolling through a museum and seeing Etretat depicted in masterpieces.
The Best Things To Do In Etretat In A Half-Day
Stroll Through The Picturesque Town
Wander through the charming town of Etretat. You’ll find restaurants, ice cream shops, and stores selling classic French blue and white striped clothing (I feel so French with my striped scarf!). Why not linger at a bistro where cider and Calvados from Normandy are on offer?
Head To The Beach In Etretat France
Of all the things to do in Etretat France, it is essential to head to the charming beach. Sit on the pebble beach and gaze out at the Atlantic Ocean and up at the picturesque cliffs.
I discovered Etretat in September. The beach was sparsely occupied by people seeking out the last vestiges of a warm summer sun, swimmers dipping into the clear salty water, and couples having picnics, champagne included.
I found the perfect place to breathe the salty air, listen to the song of the waves over the stones and gaze up to the left and the right at the magnificent cliffs.
Hike La Falaise d’Aval And Marvel At L’Aiguille (The Needle)
French Vocabulary: the cliff = la falaise
The top things to do in Etretat France involve hiking the trails that take you to the cliff tops.
I want to call it “The Elephant’s Trunk” or “Etretat Elephant Rock” but this natural arch already has a name – la Porte d’Aval. Behind it, depending on your viewpoint is the Needle or L’Aiguille, the pointy rock rising from the sea.
The changing perspective is a highlight of this trail.
Years of erosion have created this unforgettable landmark that Etretat is famous for. No wonder painters, such as Claude Monet, have recreated and captured the essence of the impressive cliffs of Etretat on canvas.
Read More: Planning a trip to Normandy? These 21 Wonderful Things to do in Normandy France will make for an amazing trip to this region of France.
The Hollow Needle And Arsène Lupin
The well-loved gentleman burglar, Arsène Lupin, has become a household name with the Netflix Series Lupin, Dans l’Ombre d’Arsène. And when Season 1 ended on the beaches of Etretat, I knew I had some research to do.
The prolific French writer Maurice Leblanc lived in Etretat and wrote The Hollow Needle, a detective cliffhanger, in 1909. The Hollow Needle (that pointy rock in the sea) is holding a secret, more than a secret – an actual treasure. Legend has it that all the grandest riches of the Kings of France are stealthily hidden inside The Hollow Needle. The key to the secret of accessing the treasure was passed down from generation to generation until it was lost in the 18th century.
Lupin, of course, in The Hollow Needle, is on a mission to uncover the treasure.
When you visit Etretat, your imagination can go wild. I mean, it’s one of the best things to do in Etretat! The needle rock France. Perhaps you will be the one to finally discover the secret stairway or tunnel leading to the greatest riches of France.
Or you could settle for a visit to Le Clos Lupin Museum in the house where Maurice Leblanc lived. The museum visit is like no other as you are charged with solving a crime…
Meanwhile, follow the adventures of the renowned Parisian gentleman thief on Netflix or pick up one of his thrillers in book form!
Le Clos Lupin – Maison Maurica Leblanc: 15 rue Guy de Maupassant
Entry Rates 2024: 8.50€
Read More: Are you a beach lover? Here is the low-down on 16 Best Beaches in France. Which would you like to visit?
The Cliffs Of Etretat: La Falaise d’Amont
One of the best things to do in Etretat is climb to the little church, the Chapel of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, perched atop La Falaise d’Amont. I headed off down the beach and easily found the well-marked trail. There are steep stairs and a well-worn trail. Even in September, there was a steady stream of people walking the path.
if you are not up for the ten-minute climb up the cliff, the tourist train that leaves from in front of the Tourist Office stops by this church. You can also drive to the top of the cliff.
Walking though, does offer its rewards.
At the top of La Falaise d’Amont, the spectacular views over the English Channel will leave you speechless.
The Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde holds its own surprises.
Remember Etretat History
As you walk towards La Falaise d’Aval, information panels share historical information about Etretat, its people, and World War II.
One fact that I can’t forget is that the Germans planted 1500 mines on this very beach where I strolled and littered it with obstacles to make a landing there impossible. There were also concrete bunkers built between the cliffs.
Read More: Visiting Normandy often entails a trip to the D-Day Beaches. Etretat is a 2-hour drive to Omaha Beach and Bayeux. Here is how… How to Visit the D-Day Beaches in Normandy France
Things To Do In Etretat In A Full Day
A short afternoon in Etretat is enough time to enjoy the natural beauty of the Étretat cliffs and surrounding landscapes. If you have more time why not:
Visit Les Jardins d’Étretat
The Jardins d’Etretat or Gardens of Etretat are a set of artistic gardens located on the Amont Cliff in Etretat. Designed by landscape architect Alexandre Grivko, the gardens were created to complement the natural beauty of the area. There are seven parts to these unique topiary gardens replete with statues and flowers.
Hours 2024: from February 17, 2024: Wednesdays to Sundays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Entry Fee 2024: 12€
Please note: There is no parking on the Amont Cliff.
Visit The Monument To The Oiseau Blanc
Nungesser et Coli were French aviation pioneers known for their attempt to make the first non-stop transatlantic flight from Paris to New York in 1927. Their fate remains unknown as their plane L’Oiseau Blanc (The White Bird) disappeared during the attempt. Etretat is the last place that they were seen, thus the monument is here.
Play Golf On the Etretat Golf Course
Etretat is home to a golf course (Golf d’Etretat) situated on top of the cliffs. Although I have never played here, I have French friends who have. They rave about the fantastic 18-hole golf course on the cliffs at Étretat and the stunning panoramic views of the English Channel.
Linger A Litte In Etretat
There is never enough time when you find a little piece of paradise. Somewhere I read a disparaging comment about Etretat that went something like this,”Why would you want to spend a night in Etretat?” I think about this person and how they missed out on all the charming things to do in Etretat and the whole point of the iconic white chalk cliffs.
Why not make time to walk the shores at low tide under the Porte d’Aval, get up early and see the rising sun lighting up the cliffs at Etretat? What about seizing the opportunity to witness a glorious sunset where alabaster cliffs turn pink? I think the things to do in Etretat would impress any traveller.
Bring your curious soul. There are marvellous things to do in Etretat, the French town with its iconic white cliffs and breath-taking views.
How To Visit Etretat Cliffs
Best Time To Visit Etretat France
With so many things to do in Etretat France and its stunning landscapes, Etretat is super popular during tourist season. Since the Lupin Netflix Series, the number of tourists coming to Etretat has grown immensely. Try to visit Etretat in the shoulder season or low season for fewer crowds.
Where To Stay In Etretat
If you plan to stay a night or two in Etretat, book early and check out these hotels.
Where To Park In Etretat France
Etretat is a small village with limited parking places. For parking in Etretat, it is recommended to use the Grand Val, Fréfossé and train station parking lots. During the tourist season, there are more remote parking lots available. Find the full list of car parks here.
How To Get To Etretat:
By Train:
No train arrives in Etretat. Take the train to Le Havre or Bréauté-Beuzeville.
By Bus:
From Le Havre to Etretat, there is a direct bus (#13). It takes about an hour. The bus station is right beside the train station. Check the schedules here.
From Bréauté-Beuzeville, take Line 504 (Bréauté- Etretat).
If the bus schedules do not work with your timing, there are taxis available: Taxis des Hautes Falaises
Flixbus has a schedule from Paris to Etretat, with frequent buses in the peak months.
By Car:
From Paris take the A13 north toward Rouen. Follow A13 until you reach the interchange with A29. Take the A29 towards Le Havre. Take the exit for Etretat.
Further Reading and Enjoyment:
If you are travelling in Normandy, here are all my posts to help you plan your trip. This article, 21 Wonderful Things To Do in Normandy is a great overview. You might also like detailed articles on
- the Bayeux tapestry
- Mont-Saint-Michel
- Giverny
- How to eat oysters as the French do when travelling in Normandy France.
Heading to Paris?
All my Paris resources are right here on this page.
If you love that village feel in Paris these areas might interest you:
Montmartre, much like Ile Saint- Louis, feels like a small village. This post on Montmartre leads you to the most popular sites as well as some lesser-known places on the hill.
Le Marais is one of the oldest areas of Paris. Once marshland, it is hopping with boutiques, cafés, gorgeous old mansions and museums. Read my full guide to le Marais.
Canal Saint-Martin is great fun to explore. Here is what to do in this Bobo quartier.
These hidden gems of Paris will lead you to uncover some super secrets in Paris.
Would you like to visit the cliffs of Étretat in Normandy?
Until next time,
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Oh Alison this sounds delightful. And magnificent, as are your photos. I also don’t understand the person who wondered why you’d spend more than a day there. We had the same thing when we went to Uluru in Australia. Someone suggested that one day was enough, there wasn’t much to do or see. Madness. We spent 2.5 days there and it still wasn’t enough.
Beautiful post.
Thank you, Alison. I love that you still felt you could spend more time at Uluru (on my bucket list). Connecting to a place through its inherent beauty is one of the joys of slow travel.